FFW 2021 Wine Catalogue

Piedmont A region surrounded on three sides by mountains, amere five-hour drive from Burgundy, Piedmont shares a similar template: many small vineyards each offering up subtle differences. As in Burgundy, the grower is key. Unlike Burgundy, the complete hillside is used to grow grapes so a north-eastern aspect may favour the Dolcetto grape, whilst a south-south-eastern can favour Nebbiolo. Altitude alsomakes it mark, with Nebbiolo ungrowable above 500m, and wonderful hazelnuts often filling the valley floor. The area is brimming with exceptional wines, amazing food, and of course “tartufo” - truffles. Piedmont is a province that has practiced viticulture for millennia. As such there are small biodynamic producers, like the late Stefano Bellotti in Gavi, who led Italy’s organic and biodynamicmovement, reviving almost extinct grapes like the obscure, age-worthy Dolcetto Nibio. Dolcetto is usually a variety drunk at lunch time – simple and enjoyable. In Gavi in the south-east one finds the Cortese di Gavi which produces elegant and refined whites suitable for all occasions. Across Piedmont one finds Barbera, whichmakes ‘big’ wines: acidic, juicy and ripe – a 1998 Barbera d’Asti ( Scarpa , ‘ La Bogliona ’) I drunk in London summer 2019 was mature but in good shape. Not all are designed for such a long life, however, andmost are quickly consumed. The better-thought of growing areas for Barbera can label the wines as Barbera d’- Asti or Alba or de Montferrato. Nebbiolo is the ethereal, intriguing, foremost grape variety in Piedmont, fromwhich the most expensive wines aremade. Two areas of Barolo and Barbaresco above all produce the best examples. These two regions are among the world’s greatest, however only a few producers here have their wine regularly traded. Great news for wine-lovers as mature or maturing cases occasionally can be found (if any will part from them!) at not muchmore than annual release prices. So, a convincing investment market doesn’t

ITALY PIEDMONT

The 2016 vintage is game-changing. You’ll want to buy some, and you can hardly go wrong.

—WALTERSPELLER

exist yet but given the quality of winemade here and the Burgundy-style small holdings it’s not impossible that along with the Rhône something might take off. Following the superb 2016 vintage the region is gaining traction, but top producers release at high-ish prices removing any huge investment gains. The top names in Barolo and Barbaresco are numerous – BartoloMascarello , Luca Sandrone , Roberto Voerzio , Luigi Pira , Bruno Giacosa , Aldo Conterno , E. Pira , Angelo Gaja , Elio Grasso , Sottimano and Luca Roagna , among many others. Theymark the pinnacle of Nebbiolo production. Northeast of Turin lies the lesser-known regions of Gattinara DOCG and five other DOCs, with Ghemme the next best. The Nebbiolo here is called Spanna, in the local dialect, but while in Barolo one finds over 80 producers, here there are only a handful. Travaglini is the foremost producer here along with Antoniolo and quality is on the rise and there’s certainly excellent and age-worthy value wines. We stock Travaglini and I was lucky enough to find some 2010 Riserva on an Italian skiing holiday just before lockdown: £35 in the hotel restaurant! Tom Meade

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WINE CATALOGUE