FFW 2021 Wine Catalogue

Champagne

CHAMPAGNE

Champagnemakes the blood tingle, ensures the party gets started, and indeed seems wholly appropriate at all hours of the day andnight. I wonder if Boris will adopt his idol Winston Churchill’s practice of an Imperial pint of Pol Roger brought to himon a silver plate at 11 ameach morning! Champagne comes fromthe eponymous region 70 kilometres east of Paris. Only sparklingwines made using theMéthode Champenoise in this region are entitled to use the name Champagne, and any attempt by others to use the name are fiercely rebuffed. That said the use ofMéthode Champenoise (or Méthode Traditionelle, as it is often called)

it

can feel fuller inflavour. If not

specified on the label, then the blendwill most likely constitute all three grapes. Around 17,000 Champagne houses exist within the 33,000-hectare landscape, dominated by Moët &Chandon , who corner 25%of themarket. Many smaller, family houses remain at the top of the quality spectrum andwe particularly

is responsible for theworlds’ finest

bubblies. It involves two fermentations, the second

of which takes placewithin a sealed bottle, thus, as the grape sugar is gobbled up by the yeast, carbondioxide is producedwhich is re-absorbed into thewine and

ensures the finest of bubbles, which persist in the glass. From picking the grapes (Chardonnay and Pinots’ Noir andMeunier are the only grapes permitted) to the release, a bottle occupies around 40man-hours. It is complex and magical. If you get the chance to visit the region you must! The Cathedral inReims ismost impressive, and if youfind yourself at a loose end late in the evening you canhone your Karaoke skills at Le Bar des Amis inRue Emile Zola. Many styles of Champagne exist, the principal one being Brut Non-Vintage, accounting for around 85%of production. Blanc de Blancs (100%Chardonnay) is wonderful in the right hands, citrusy and tingling freshwhen young, taking on some toasty, brioche flavours with age. Blanc deNoirs is always Pinot, so

recommend Louis Roederer , Taittinger , and Pol Roger . There are equally some tremendous small Growers who produce some delicious fizz, and price competitively as there is no “marketing spend” written in to the cost. Do try our excellent EsterlinBrut , really fresh and fabulous, as well as Gardet , which is a little fuller inflavour, and in one instancewas likened to “mini Krug” – praise indeed! Champagne seems to tastewonderful 24/7 and is always appropriate. As Napoleon said, “I couldnot livewithout champagne; in victory I deserve it, in defeat I need it.” I will raise a glass to that! Julian Chamberlen

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WINE CATALOGUE