FFW 2021 Wine Catalogue

FINE WINE LTD EST. 1975

2021 WINE CATALOGUE

OUR GUIDE TO CLASSICWINE REGIONS

SPOTLIGHTINGOUR FAVOURITE DOMAINES, CHÂTEAUX ANDGROWERS

HOWTO STORE AND SERVE FINE WINE

Contents ENGLAND

2 6

92

ITALY NORTHEASTERN ITALY PIEDMONT TUSCANY

BORDEAUX LEFTBANK RIGHTBANK BURGUNDY CHABLIS CÔTEDE BEAUNE CÔTEDENUITS BEAUJOLAIS RHÔNE NORTHERNRHÔNE SOUTHERNRHÔNE

106 116 122

SPAIN

24

PORTUGAL

GERMANY AHR&BADEN MOSEL

62

132

NEWWORLD CALIFORNIA SOUTHAMERICA NEWZEALAND&AUSTRALIA SOUTHAFRICA

74 80 86

CHAMPAGNE

LOIRE

148 150

GLASSWARE

SOUTHERN FRANCE

STORAGE AND CELLARING

WELCOME

Likemany of us I’msure, I’ve found this year has been one onwhich to reflect on life a little. I’ve reflected on how any of us can be indiscriminately singled out and have the rug pulled fromunder us. I’ve been stirred by the call to arms by communities; that ubiquitous phrase ‘keep calmand carry on’ hasn’t been so poignant formany a decade. One thinks about family, elderly parents in self-imposed exile fromsociety, howhaving the children at home is actually quite nice, and occasionally opening a bottle of wine at lunchtime on a weekday is a rather good idea! And it makesme reflect on the power of Nature as she unleashes her infinite powers. Even the vineyards of La Romanee Conti can be basking in the glorious sunshine in themorning and yet be shredded by hailstones the size of fists that afternoon. The hallowed vines of LeMontrachet can be pushing up their delicate shoots to create the next vintage, only for Jack Frost to stop them in his tracks and say, ‘sorrymessieurs, not this year’. And it makes us reflect that we’re simply being told, ‘you lot have been over-working the soil I gave you, there’s no vintage this year’ – perhaps we should go and stand in the corner and think about what we’ve done! It’s with this inmind that we count our blessingsmore than ever. We thank every one of youwho buy our wines. In June, we collectively stumbled through an unexpected and chaotic Bordeaux En Primeur campaign, and evenwith the confusingly alluring prices, we all escaped with our dignities aloft. The Châteaux offered the keys to their cellars andwe graciously obliged – the 1904 Entente Cordiale alive oncemore! As I write this, we are planning how to safely taste 300wines from35 Burgundian estates – usually done Welcome

in the confines of a small cellar. We’re yet to work out howbut work it out we will…. it’s far too important not to! On the home front, we are delighted towelcome two newmembers to the Farthinghoe Family. Lucy Riley joins us primarily to helpmanage our own increasing volumes of stocks and your cellars. We are also thrilled towelcome Charles Newman, whose search for new opportunities as head of SeckfordWines’ private client teambrought him to our door. He spent his previous years cutting his teeth and honing his tasting (and selling!) skills with another prestigiousmerchant in their Asia-based division. And the brief glimpse of cleaner air and bluer skies has nudged us to do our bit by deciding not to bundle all of us onto cheap Ryanair flights, but to enjoy watching the continental countryside fly by from trains. Andwe’ve chosen not to encumber you automatically with 500 grams of printed paper to spread ourmessage, though for those of youwho enjoy flicking through a hard copy, we of course have copies available. So, perhaps like you, our Farthinghoe Family faces these next fewmonths with maybe a sniff of trepidation. However, our spirits are up andwe aremore enthusiastic than ever to continue to offer you, our clients, themost professional level of service our trade has to offer, themost candid and straightforward advice we can and, of course, asWithnail once said, some of the finest wines known to humanity! In themeantime, stay sanguine, keep well and drink even better! Alex Alex Cox, Managing Director

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ENGLAND

Wiston is one of the UK’s best producers and their sparklers genuinely give champagne a run for their money (and I write that as a person that criticized the category for many years).

—NEALMARTIN

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WINE CATALOGUE

ENGLAND

The EnglishQuality SparklingWine category, to give its official title, provides the parameters that the similar AOCor DOprovides in France and Spain. There are quite a fewproducers in the market now, and it ismaturing. There has been a notable rise in quality fromthewines that were made ten years ago - certainly now the estates are finding their feet. Importantly, they are no longer trying tomake champagne in England. But what is sadly still true is that in general, the wine is expensivewhen compared to its cousins in Champagne. With start-up costs and an evenmore marginal climatewherewhole crops can be lost, such as in 2012, this is almost unavoidable. But the comparisons remain. England Some producers are pushing for specific regional demarcation – like a Sussex PDO. Most however don’t see the benefit in splittingwhat is a nascent category and dividing their strengths. Asmentioned above themarginal climatemeans producersmay need to fall back on bought grapes fromacross the South of England indifficult years like 2012wheremany producers struggled tomake anything. Wiston first cottoned on to the potential quality they hadwhen a couple of champagne houses came knocking to enquire about the availability of certain slopes, and a passionproject spiraled into

something that is really going places. However, for everyWiston there are people likemewhomused on planting some grapes in a fieldwhichwould have absorbed funds like a sponge to no end result. To start as an English producer, youneednerves of steel and sometimes deep pockets at the outset. Other notable producers include Hambledon , whosewines on the SouthDowns’ South-western edge, nearWinchester, are pretty spectacular. Nyetimber of course is verywell-known and one of the largest quality producers. You also have an array of growers who’s actual wine-making is contracted out to thosewith the expertise, such as atWiston or Nyetimber – wine-making equipment is very expensive – as is the know-how. Domaine Evremond inKent is another exciting newcomer onKent’s Green-sand, a joint project between Taittinger and their UK Importers HatchMansfield. Their first harvest should be soon.

Its’ a very exciting time in a nascent industry. Quality is on the up as are export sales, with Scandinavia a huge

market. We’re proud to be close partners ofWiston Estate and encourage you to taste these remarkable creations. Tom Meade

CLASSIC GRAPE VARIETALS Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Bacchus

FAVOURITE PRODUCERS Wiston Estate, Chapel Down, Nyetimber, Hambledon, Domaine Evremond, Gusbourne

AREA UNDER VINE 3,500ha

SOIL TYPE Chalk, calcerous clay, green-sand

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ENGLAND

MEET THE GROWER Wiston Estate Dermot Sugrue, Wiston’s winemaker cuts quite a roguish figure in both the stories about his professional background (Irish beer and fruit wine brewer, turned Champagne and English winemaker extraordinaire) and the devilish glint of the eye and the wry smile he casts. I first came across the estate after a chance meeting with a familymember of the owner, who scoffed at my regard of Nyetimber. He said if you want serious quality, tryWiston and the work of Sugrue, the winemaker formerly of Nyetimber (at least until he fell in love with the terroir at Findon Park – Wiston’s 7ha amphitheatre vineyard). Interest piqued we promptly got in touch, tasted the wines and duly fell in love. What superb quality they have! What we love about Wiston Estate is their down to earth character, jaw-dropping quality and wholly reasonable prices (their Estate Cuvee 2015 retails at £36 and is, in our humble opinion, far superior to NV GrandMarque Champagne around the same price).

We visited theWest Sussex estate in August 2020 and were so pleased that our previous quality perceptionwas maintained – even increased - as we tasted across a wider range. Their 2014 Rose (a great Pinot Noir vintage) left us speechless. The Blanc de Blanc is terrific, too. “One of the finest English sparkling wines that I have encountered.... Now this is how you make a great Blanc de Blancs,” gushed Neal Martin in July 2020. He rated the Blanc de Blancs 95 points and we wholeheartedly agree with him. Please seek out these wines – we usually have them in stock – they are the real deal. Their Estate Cuvee 2015, unscored by Neal Martin, is the team favourite, with 66% Pinot Noir andMeunier and 33% Chardonnay. Another plus is these wines are perfect for food, such is their stuffing and complexity. We will 100% be arranging a dinner for our clients with the roguish Dermot Sugrue at the helm. It will certainly be a fun night!

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WINE CATALOGUE

ENGLAND

CUVÉE WISTON ESTATE 2015 DRINK2020+

BLANCDE BLANCS WISTON ESTATE 2015 DRINK2020+

6x75 £148

6x75 £182.85

This is a wonderful golden raisin colour in the glass. The nose is concentrated and complex – with the Pinot noir evident - strawberry, peach, lemon zest and white chocolate along with grilled brioche and honey. It’s quite a dry style but the fruit on the palate is deeply weighted with such concentration and length that you’re pleased there is nomore dosage than the 8g / l. Disgorged on 19 November 2019. I drunk this with food and it was more than amatch. Highly impressive – I will be a regular buyer myself!

Wiston’s 2015 Blanc de Blancs is one of the finest English sparkling wines that I have encountered... to date. It was picked fromOctober 22 to November 3 after a warm, dry October, the yield 15hl/ha, 50% fermented in stainless steel and 50% in old Burgundy barrels and aged on the lees for ninemonths. Dosage is 8g/L. This has a fantastic bouquet of bewitching scents of lime, green apple, honeysuckle and slithers of tinned peach, all beautifully defined. The palate does not disappoint, delivering exquisite balance, wonderful focus and a touch of mineralité toward the harmonious finish. Now this is how youmake a great Blanc de Blancs.

—NEALMARTIN

WA95 POINTS

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Bordeaux

BORDEAUX

There is no doubt 2019 is an outstanding vintage, clearly an important vintage. What stands out [...] is their exceptional balance.

—ANTONIOGALLONI, VINOUS

Bordeaux has been the centre of thewine trade since Eleanor of AquitanemarriedHenry II in 1152 with Bordeaux served at the royal wedding. This marked the beginning of 200 years of British rule that allowed Bordeaux to spread its reputation the world over. It has the perfect soil for vine cultivation. Its proximity to the Atlantic coast both influenced thewines and the trade that the shipping links allowed. Further developments followed in the 17th centurywhenDutch engineers drained themarshes that surrounded Bordeaux. Theseworks shaped the geography as we know it today, allowing some of the great vineyards of theworld to appear from thewater. As we come to themodern era, Bordeaux maintained its position at the head of the table. In 1855, a classificationwas drawnupwith Chateaux submitting their wines for approval. Thus, the current five-tier system we know todaywas born. It is still relevant to this day as a source of pride for the estates involved.

through an act of Parliament by the thenMinister of Agriculture Jacques Chirac (not a family friend?!). It is only in the latter part of the 20th century that châteaux started to bottle their wine before that shippers ormerchants would send their wines still in the barrel to their warehouses in London before bottling themselves. As the quality and consistency improved, the estates wanted greater control over their wines. Enprimeur, or wine futures, came about in the early 1980s, coincidingwith a period of global affluence. The 1982 vintage sawRobert Parker become the key influencer of thewinemarket withhis coverage of the Bordeaux releases. Unlike many other regions wheremerchants import wine directly to their home countries, Bordeaux is distributed ‘on the place’, themarketplace where négociants wouldmeet to trade. The vast

majority of Bordeaux trade is via négociants, agents that act as themiddleman between Châteaux and the global trade. Wemerchants, in-turn promote their wines to our customers. The Bordeaux vineyards that surround the city and each village or commune have their own textbook style. It is not a surprise to see these individual styles as to drive fromthe extremes of St. Estèphe to St. Émilionwould take over 90 minutes and cover about 100km. Charles Newman

BORDEAUX

CLASSIC GRAPE VARIETALS RED Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc; WHITEANDSWEET Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon SOIL TYPE Left Bank: Gravel Right Bank: Clay/Limestone

Later in the 20th century, with a global oil crisis of 1973, the Bordelaise had drastic financial issues that led to allowing foreign investment. It was the same year that Mouton-Rothschild was promoted from2nd to 1st growth, the only change since the 1855 classification

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WINE CATALOGUE

BORDEAUX

CHÂTEAUMARJOSSE, GRANDVINDE BORDEAUX 2016 DRINK2020-2024

CHÂTEAUMARJOSSE, GRANDVINDE BORDEAUX 2019 DRINK2022-2025

12x75 £102.22

6x75 £51

A refined, pretty and balanced red with berries. Fresh. 80 per cent merlot.

Deep garnet-purple colored, the 2019Marjosse has a come-hither nose of kirsch, stewed black cherries and warmplums with hints of spice cake, wilted roses, oolong tea and Sichuan pepper. Themedium-bodied palate is plushy textured with bags of scrumptious black and red fruits and a lively backbone, finishing fragrant.

—JAMES SUCKLING

JS 91 POINTS

—LISAPERROTTI-BROWN

WA90-92 POINTS

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TRAVEL TIPS Travel to Bordeaux The beautiful city of Bordeaux, with its classic 18th Century French architecture, epitomised by the Place de la Bourse and Grand Théâtre Opera House, showcases the wealth generated by the dominant business of the region – wine. One forgets quite how large the region is and a drive fromSt. Estèphe in the NorthernMédoc to the beautiful UNESCOWorld Heritage town of St. Émilionwill take you the best part of two hours by car. If visiting for a few days, one can take two approaches - either base oneself in Bordeaux and travel out to the wine regions from there or travel around (as we do) staying a night or two in the famous villages of St. Émilion, St. Julien or Pauillac. Access is easy, and we tend to fly into Bordeaux-Mérignac Airport, fromwhere one can be sipping a kir royale in the gardens of the Hotel au Logis des Remparts overlooking the medieval rooftops of St. Émilionwithin an hour. For those happy to treat themselves, the 5* Hostellerie de Plaisance is the place to be seen. For dinner, we prefer the pretty location and ambiance of the Logis de la Cadène a couple of minutes around the corner. Amust visit restaurant in St Emilion is La Terrasse Rouge. Owned by Ch. La Dominique, the huge red facade is hard to miss with the rooftop restaurant giving commanding views of the surrounding vineyards & Chateaux like Cheval Blanc & La Conseillante. If staying in Bordeaux itself, the alluring façade of ‘ Le Grand ’ opposite the Opera House offers amagnificent view over the heart of the city and amyriad of restaurants to explore. Pessac-Léognan is the closest wine region to the city itself. La Mission, Haut-Brion is extraordinarily nestled in the suburbs. As buildings give way to vines, a night at Les Sources de Caudalie , surrounded by the vineyards of Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte is a very tolerable place to find oneself, especially if dining in the 2* Michelin La Grand’Vigne . Over in theMedoc, we tend to stay in a rather shambolic ChâteauMeyer’s Le Clos deMeyre just outside Avensan in the heart of theMedoc – even during the En Primeurs tasting week we seem to have the placemore or less to ourselves. Don’t expect 5* service – more like a hands-off rustic charm. One of the reasons we stay here is its proximity to the

BORDEAUX

restaurant Le Lion d’Or in Arcins, a perennial favorite at Farthingoe. Busy every night, the food is simple, delicious Bordelaise fare. In the restaurant boxes mounted on the walls contain bottles fromall the great Medoc Chateaux. These are personally stocked by Chateau owners and usually firmly locked! However, just sometimes and if one asks a Chateau owner nicely (or place a large order), youmay well find a bottle from their box on your table to greet you! A fewmiles north of St. Julien on the edge of Pauillac town is the much smarter Relais & Château Hotel of Château Cordeillan-Bages with their recently appointed 1* Michelin restaurant, and the fun ‘Village de Bages’ adjoining the Lynch-Bages estate, offering a few boutiques to wander through and a bite in the Le Café Lavinal bistro for somethingmore casual. Of course, themain reasonmost of us visit the Bordeaux region is to visit so Châteaux and taste some wines! Through our contacts there, we’ll always be delighted to helpmake your visit amemorable one and set up a couple of tastings for you with some of our favourite Châteaux. Alex Cox

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WINE CATALOGUE

BORDEAUX

Bordeaux City

LEGRANDHOTEL 2-5 Place de la Comedie, 33000 Bordeaux, France

bordeaux.intercontinental.com

St. Émilion

HOTEL AU LOGIS DESREMPARTS

LOGISDE LACADÈNE 3 Place duMarché au Bois, 33330 St-Émilion, France

18 RueGuadet, 33330 Saint- Émilion, France

www.logisdelacadene.fr

logisdesremparts.com/eng

Pessac-Léognan

LESSOURCESDE CAUDALIE

LAGRAND’VIGNE

SmithHaut-Lafitte, 33650 Martillac, France

Smith Haut-Lafitte, 33650 Martillac, France www.sources-caudalie. com/en/la-grand-vigne- restaurant-etoile

www.sources-caudalie.com

The Médoc

LE CLOSDEMEYRE 16 Route de Castelnau, 33480 Avensan, France

CHÂTEAU CORDEILLAN-BAGES

Route des Châteaux, 33250 Pauillac, France

www.chateaumeyre.com

www.cordeillanbages.com

CAFÉ LIVINAL

LE LIOND’OR

Passage du Desquet, 33250 Pauillac, France

11 Route de Pauillac, 33460 Arcins, France

www.jmcazes.com/en/

www.leliondor-arcins.fr

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Left Bank

BORDEAUX LEFTBANK

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WINE CATALOGUE

BORDEAUX LEFTBANK

CHÂTEAUCLERCMILON, 5ÈMECRU PAUILLAC 2019 DRINK2027- 2038

6x75 £312

The blend this year is 72%Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 4%Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot, harvested from the 19th of September to the 9th of October. Deep garnet-purple colored, the 2019 Clerc Milon starts out a little closed and broody, offering notes of tar, chargrill, tapenade andMarmite toast over an emerging core of stewed plums, black cherries and kirsch with a touch of garrigue. The medium-bodied palate delivers loads of freshness with crunchy black fruits and a lively line, backed up by grainy tannins, finishing long and savory.

Pauillac

Pauillac is almost the seat of power in Bordeaux. Home to 3 of the 5 first growths from the 1855 classification. It uses the aromatics of its northern neighbour St Estephe and the textural elegance and charmof its southern neighbours, St. Julien andMargaux. It balances this perfectly andmakes textbook claret. You would expect to find cassis and cigar box flavours in Pauillac wines.

—LISAPERROTTI-BROWN

WA92-94+ POINTS

PAUILLAC

KEY CHÂTEAUX Latour, Lafite-Rothschild, Mouton-Rothschild, Haut-Batailley, Pontet Canet and Lynch-Bages

AREA UNDER VINE

1,200ha

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CHÂTEAUMONTROSE, 2ÈMECRU ST. ÈSTEPHE 2017 DRINK2028 - 2042

BORDEAUX LEFTBANK

6x75 £590

Dense and powerful on the nose, rich, but not overly ripe - great balance here. Slightly confected blackcurrant, sweet fruits keeping this complex and lively, mineral bursts adding to the complexity. The palate isn’t as rich as the bouquet suggests it might be. There’s elegance with well-structured tannins and consistent concentrationwith hints of spice. The finish is long and balanced - excellent overall concentration.

St. Èstephe The Northernmost commune on the left bank, it is known for savoury, wildly flavoured and structured wines. They are masculine, mineral and need extended ageing. Perhaps some of the wines most suited to the traditional British palate.

WA98 POINTS

ST. ÈSTEPHE

KEY CHÂTEAUX Cos d’Estournel, Montrose, Calon-Ségur

AREA UNDER VINE 1,230ha

SOIL TYPE Gravel

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WINE CATALOGUE

BORDEAUX LEFTBANK

CHÂTEAUPHELAN-SEGUR, CRU BOURGEOIS EXCEPTIONNEL ST. ÈSTEPHE 2019 DRINK2025 - 2045

12x75 £373

The 2019 Phélan Ségur has a very composed bouquet with detailed blackberry and briary scents, a touch of melted tar and cracked black pepper coming through with aeration. The palate is very cohesive with fine tannins, gentle grip, quite saline in themouth with impressive density and harmony towards the finish. Quintessentially Saint-Estèphe, this is a superb Phélan Ségur that should not be under-estimated. Tasted twice.

—NEALMARTIN

VINOUS 93-95 POINTS

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CHÂTEAULALANDE-BORIE, CRUBOURGEOIS ST. JULIEN 2018 DRINK2023 - 2033

BORDEAUX LEFTBANK

12x75 £229

There’s a ripe plum fruit nose, some coffee, nice weight and sweetness, excellent generous sweet fruit. Dense and rich. 14.5% alcohol likemany of the 2018s, but very fresh despite its size. Fruit driven and chalky but fine tannin at themoment. Good intensity here and pretty long.

St. Julien St Julien is the smallest of the four major left bank communes and perhaps themost consistent & classically styled. At its best, St. Julien is defined as much by texture as its flavour profile with fine, suave tannins.

JS 92-93 POINTS

ST. JULIEN

KEY CHÂTEAUX Léoville-Las Cases, Léoville- Barton, Ducru-Beaucaillou, Langoa-Barton and Gruaud-Larose

AREA UNDER VINE

920ha

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WINE CATALOGUE

BORDEAUX LEFTBANK

CHÂTEAULÉOVILLE-POYFERRÉ, 2ÈMECRU ST. JULIEN 2019 DRINK2028 - 2044

6x75 £308

The 2019 Léoville Barton is a different kettle of fish compared to its sibling Langoa. It has a complex bouquet of blackberry, sous-bois, tobacco and minerals, muchmore introverted yet exceedingly complex. The palate is exquisite in terms of balance, ladenwith intense black fruit laced with orange zest, that citrus element counterbalancing the tannic grip and structure. There is a sense of completeness to this Léoville-Barton, certainly on par with the best vintages in recent years. A formidable yet charming Saint-Julien in themaking.

—NEALMARTIN

VINOUS 94-96 POINTS

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CHÂTEAUBRANE-CANTENAC, 2ÈMECRU MARGAUX 2019 DRINK2026 - 2041

BORDEAUX LEFTBANK

12x75 £498

This shows exotic aromas of blackberries, wet earth, chocolate and fresh basil leaves. It’s full-bodied with round, creamy tannins and a flavorful finish. Intriguing and real on the palate.

Margaux Geographically and stylistically opposed to St. Éstephe, it is the furthest south and themost feminine in style. It is perfumed, elegant, seductive and charming. It is a large commune and the best Chateaux occupy a small gravel plateau, at its best they are wines of purity and refinement.

—JAMES SUCKLING

JS 93-94 POINTS

MARGAUX

KEY CHÂTEAUX Margaux, Rauzan-Ségla, Palmer, Siran and Giscours

AREA UNDER VINE 1,413ha

SOIL TYPE Gravel

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WINE CATALOGUE

BORDEAUX LEFTBANK

CHÂTEAUHAUT-BAILLY, CRUCLASSÉ PESSAC-LÉOGNAN 2019 DRINK2029 - 2045

6x75 £420

Composed of 56%Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, 4%Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot, the 2019Haut-Bailly was harvested from the 23rd of September to 11th of October. Deep garnet-purple colored, it leaps from the glass with vivacious notes of blackcurrant cordial, black raspberries and plum preserves with a tantalizing undercurrent of candied violets, dark chocolate, menthol and licorice plus a touch of Chinese five spice. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is achingly elegant, showing off perfumed black fruit layers with a firm frame of very fine- grained, silt-like tannins and seamless freshness, finishing with incredible persistence and fragrance. Just magic.

Pessac- Léognan Starting on the outskirts of the city of Bordeaux with some of the finest vineyards, notably of Haut-Brion, intermingling with the urban sprawl. Some of the finest white wines of Bordeaux come from this region too and overall white Graves is a style that is seriously underrated. The wines aremineral, finely structured and alluring, while the reds have a rich power that is superb.

—LISAPERROTTI-BROWN

PESSAC-LÉOGNAN

WA97-99 POINTS

KEY CHÂTEAUX Haut Brion, Domaine de Chevalier, Haut Bailly, Smith Haut Lafitte and Pape Clement

AREA UNDER VINE 1,580ha

SOIL TYPE Gravel

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BORDEAUX LEFTBANK

[Bordeaux is] the world’s biggest resource of fine wine

—HUGH JOHNSONAND JANCISROBINSON, THEWORLDATLASOFWINE (5THEDITION)

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WINE CATALOGUE

BORDEAUX LEFTBANK

RECIPE Tourain à la Bordelaise (Grape Harvester’s Soup) The various tourains of southwestern France are also onion soups. The onions are coloured in goose fat, lard, or drippings and the simplest is moistened with water, simmered for from45minutes to 1 hour and served over crusts of bread. Garlic is sometimes added, often a spoonful of flour is stirred into the onions after they have been browned and before they aremoistened, a handful of French thread-thin vermicelli may be added a fewminutes before serving, and terminal egg-yolk bindings are not uncommon. The bread crusts may be rubbed with garlic, and certain households add a bit of vinegar at the last minute. The following is a typical Bordelais tourain and is traditional at the season of the wine-grape harvest. A nativemay first eat his sopped bread crust, empty out his (red) wine glass into the soup, and drink the rest from the soup plate, a performance known as faire chabrol (or faire chabrot)—to act like a little goat—and which belongs more to the realmof folklore than to that of contemporary habit.

INGREDIENTS

METHOD

• 1½ pounds onions, thinly sliced • ¼ cup olive oil • Salt • 4 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped • 3mediumfirm, ripe

1. Using a large, heavy saucepan, cook the onions gently in the oil, stirring regularly with a wooden spoon, until they are uniformly light golden and very soft. 2. Add the salt, the garlic, the tomatoes, and the sugar and continue to cook gently, stirring from time to time, for another 10minutes. 3. Add the white wine, turn the flame up, reduce by half, stirring, and add the boiling water. Simmer, covered, for from45minutes to 1 hour before serving out the soup over crusts of bread placed in the individual soup plates.

tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and coarsely chopped

• ½ teaspoon sugar • ½ cup dry white wine • 6 cups boiling water • Slices of stale bread

RICHARD OLNEY, SIMPLE FRENCH FOOD

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Right Bank

BORDEAUX RIGHTBANK

Pomerol Pomerol is a tiny commune that more closely resembles a Burgundy village than its left bank counterparts, with small domains taking the place of sprawling estates. For such a small area, it is incredibly diverse in style and soil type. Merlot takes the place of Cabernet Sauvignon as themain grape, with clay replacing gravel as the typical soil type. The wines tend to be approachable and charming in youth, with plumand fleshy texture. Perhaps counterintuitively, the top wines can age for decades alongside their left bank counterparts and take on savoury, meaty elements with age. There is no official classification in Pomerol. Small garagiste style properties are legends of the wine world, such as Pétrus and Le Pin .

POMEROL

KEY CHÂTEAUX Pétrus, L’Evangile, Le Pin, Clinet and Vieux Château Certan

AREA UNDER VINE 800ha

SOIL TYPE Clay

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WINE CATALOGUE

BORDEAUX RIGHTBANK

VIEUXCHÂTEAUCERTAN POMEROL 2013 DRINK2021 - 2030

BLASONDE L’EVANGILE POMEROL 2016 DRINK2020 - 2030

12x75 £990

6x75 £295

Lovely, bright, ruby colour in the glass – just as one would expect; elegant, balanced and stylish on the nose with no hint of the 50% new oak barrel use; the palate, equally stylish – very typical VCC – with good concentration, excellent poise andminerality and a decent length. Bon VinM. Thienpont!

10mins to breathe yields a wonderful nose of rich plum, violet, dark cherry raspberry touchmocha too – wonderful intensity and energy on the palate gorgeous blackcurrant and raspberry fruit, with a silky texture. There is lovely palate weight lots of freshness to finish and good length - can drink now easily and for next 10 years.

The wines of Vieux Château Certan have their own character; they have their own story to tell, not ours.

—ALEXANDRE THIENPONT

WA92 POINTS

JS 93 POINTS

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FARTHINGHOEFINEWINE.COM

BORDEAUX RIGHTBANK

St. Émilion It is the largest of themajor Bordeaux areas, larger even than the four main left bank communes combined, and the town at the centre the prettiest. It is flanked by limestone cliffs that are home to some of the best producers, such as Ausone. While the commune is large, there is a core group of extremely high-quality producers. It has its classification, first announced in 1955 and re-classified roughly every decade. Merlot is king in St Emilion, but with Cabernet playing an ever-greater part. Indeed, some of the greatest Chateaux such as Vieux Chateau Certain & Cheval Blanc champion Cabernet Franc and it undoubtedly adds a violet & peppery quality to the wines.

ST. ÉMILION

KEY CHÂTEAUX Cheval Blanc, L’Angelus, Ausone, Canon and Pavie-Macquin

AREA UNDER VINE 5,400ha

SOIL TYPE Limestone

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WINE CATALOGUE

BORDEAUX RIGHTBANK

CHÂTEAUCANON, 1ERGRANDCRUCLASSÉ B ST. ÉMILION 2015 DRINK2024 - 2040

CHÂTEAUTROPLONG-MONDOT, 1ERGRANDCRUCLASSÉ B ST. ÉMILION 2019 DRINK2027- 2039

12x75 £2,250

6x75 £381

Really bright in the glass, brimming with health, such a classic Canon nose, defined and pure, quite restrained andmodest, but so precise. On the palate, amazing freshness, wonderful length and beautiful, smoky, cedar and plum fruit, I like this verymuch.

Opaque purple-black colored, the nose is fantastically floral, bursting from the glass with notes of candied violets, red roses and lavender over a core of plumpreserves, wild blueberries and black raspberries with touches of garrigue, tilled soil, wild fungi and crushed rocks plus a waft of powdered cinnamon. Themedium-bodied palate is like a tightly coiled spring, featuring beautifully knit layers of black and red fruits, earth and floral notes within a firm, fine-grained frame and bags of freshness, finishing long andmineral laced. This is a far cry from the old-school style of TroplongMondot froma few years back, and it is incredibly impressive.

WA98-100 POINTS

—LISAPERROTI-BROWN

In St Emilion and Pomerol conditions are very different, being further inland they suffer a slightly harsher climate…which tends to accentuate the body and structure of wines made here.

—HUGH JOHNSONAND JANCISROBINSON, THEWORLDATLASOFWINE (5THEDITION)

WA96-98 POINTS

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FARTHINGHOEFINEWINE.COM

Chablis is officially part of Burgundy but it is verymuch its own region, much further north than the Côte d’Or vineyards andwith its owndistinct style. The vineyards aremade- up entirely of Chardonnay. Its cooler climate defines the style -mineral, austere, gunflint, chalk, steely. The eponymous village of Chablis is at the centre of a series of hillsides and valleys that are home to the vines. The region is blessed withKimmeridgian limestone that provides the uniquemineral inflections that thewine is famed for. At the village level, thewines can provide great value drinkingwine of elegance and refinement that is usually unoaked and meant for short termpleasure. The 1er and GrandCrus canproduce spectacular wines for long termageing. The steep sided valleys are home to 1er Crus. Eachhas a unique character depending on its position in relation to the sun. All of theGrandCru sites can be found on one prime, south-westerly facing hillside that has the greatest exposure to the sun and thus produces the ripest andmost complex grapes. Les Clos is the greatest of theGrandCru sites. Some of the names to look out for are Moreau , Raveneau , Dauvissat , Fèvre , and Defaix . MalcolmWillatts Chablis

BURGUNDY CHABLIS

CHABLIS

CLASSIC GRAPE VARIETALS Chardonnay

FAVOURITE PRODUCERS Raveneau, Dauvissat, Fèvre and Christian Moreau

AREA UNDER VINE 6,800ha

SOIL TYPE Kimmeridgean limestone

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WINE CATALOGUE

BURGUNDY CHABLIS

Chablis is one of the real jewels inwine. Unlike the Côte d’Or and Bordeaux, it has largelymanaged to avoid big outside investment and remains prettymuch as it always has been, a small quaint village in France. There is something incredibly genuine about the wines, and the people whomake them.

—ANTONIOGALLONI, VINOUS

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CHABLIS, GRANDCRULES PREUSES

MEET THE GROWER Domaine Marcel et Blanche Fèvre The Fèvre family are inextricably linked to Chablis, tracing their lineage to 1745, and this is aDomainewe haveworkedwith formany years. We are always hugely impressedwith the quality and value across the range, from top to bottom. Gilles andNathalie, husband andwife, are the fourth generation at the helm of this estate, cousins of theWilliamFèvre branch of the family. Gilles andNathaliemet studying inDijon and since 2004 havemade together. Nathalie has previouslyworked as the winemaker at the Chablis co-operative. Their daughter Julie, an oenologist too, is now front and centrewith thewinemaking. Their style is terroir driven, pure andprecise and drinks beautifully almost immediately fromrelease. They use a small amount of newoak in their top cuvées, dependent upon vintage conditions: often 20% in their 1er Crus, 30% in their GrandCrus. This adds texture and complexitywithout overpowering the terroir character of their wonderful sites, which include 1er Crus Fourchame, Vaulorent and Mont deMilieu and Les Preuses GrandCru. PleaseNote : In the last fewyears, the estate has started to transition to the nameDomaine Gilles andNathalie Fèvre- the samewine, under a different name. Most critics review thewines under this name, andwewill soon follow suit.

DOMAINE MARCEL ET BLANCHE FÈVRE 2017 DRINK2022+

BURGUNDY CHABLIS

6x75 £240

This is wonderfully full with ripe citrus – still lean and poised, really elegant and with great concentration and length.

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WINE CATALOGUE

BURGUNDY CHABLIS

CHABLIS, 1ERCRUFOURCHAUME DOMAINE MARCEL ET BLANCHE FÈVRE 2018 DRINK2020+ Always the weightiest of their 1er Crus and from a large 10ha parcel. Fourchaume shows beautiful orchard fruit of apple pear and quince with the classic rock pool salinity shining through as well. This is fuller on the palate thanMont deMilieu and Vaulorent withmore weight and texture and will drink earlier, too. Impressive fruit definition here though – wonderful! 12x75 £240

Kudos also to Nathalie and Gilles Fèvre, who produced a couple of wonderful Premier Crus, and likewise, the father-and-son team of Christian and FabianMoreau at Domaine ChristianMoreau & Fils.

VINOUS 93 POINTS

—NEALMARTIN, VINOUS, SEPTEMBER 2020

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MEET THE GROWER Domaine Christian Moreau

BURGUNDY CHABLIS

ChristianMoreauwas born inChablis, 5th generation of awinemaking family. However, as a 17-year-old he emigrated toCanada andworked as a logger before returning home to learnhis vines in 1970. While hewas learning, the family leased out their 12 hectares of vineyard in 1975 for 25 years, taking ownership back in 2000. Christian, and his son Fabien, founded the eponymous winery in 2001. Thewinery has been on the up ever since! They have 5.5 hectares of Grands Crus, including lots of Les Clos, the top vineyard inChablis, and an equal holding of 1er Cru. Les Clos vineyardnowhosts 55-year-old vines, and they use 40%of oak barrels for the élévage, though only a tiny proportion of themare new. The point of this is to allow thewine to breathe through the oak during its evolution in barrel rather than impart oaky character. These are classicallymade and classically styledChablis of the highest order.

BH89-91 POINTS

BH90-93 POINTS

CHABLIS, 1ERCRUVAILLON DOMAINE CHRISTIANMOREAU 2018 DRINK2023+ 6x75 £130 A pretty and attractively layered nose is comprised by notes of essence of pear, citrus zest, sea breeze and a touch of wood. There is good richness to the bigger and richer mediumweight flavors that possess a caressingmouth feel as well as much better depth and persistence.

CHABLIS, GRANDCRUVALMUR DOMAINE CHRISTIANMOREAU 2018

DRINK2024+ 6x75 £240

Once again the wood treatment is generous but it stops short of being intrusive on the nose of mineral reduction, tidal pool and quinine aromas. There is wood on the palate as well as on the concentrated, intense andmuscular flavors that deliver fine length on the citrus-tinged and very dry finish. This isn’t refined and the wood isn’t subtle but once again there is good development potential.

—ALLENMEADOWS

—ALLENMEADOWS

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WINE CATALOGUE

BURGUNDY CHABLIS

RECIPE Jambon Chablisienne INGREDIENTS METHOD

• 100g Butter • 3 Shallots – finely diced • 25g Tomato puree • Half bottle of chablis • 150g Crème Fraiche • 160ml double cream

1. Soften shallots with butter, and then add the tomato paste and Chablis and simmer over mediumheat until reduced by half. 2. Add crème fraiche and double creamover medium-high heat for 10 mins. 3. Use your fingertips tomix softened butter and flour. 4. Cook the tagliatelle pasta until al dente. 5. Bring sauce to a boil. Add flour and butter mix as required thicken the sauce. Strain sauce and reserve. 6. Add the hamand sauce into the pan of cooked pasta and stir through. 7. Garnish with parsley

TO FINISH SAUCE

• 25g Butter and 25g of flour mixed together

FOR THE DISH

• 125g of thick sliced ham • 200g Tagliatelle • Small bunch chopped Parsley

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Côte de Beaune

BURGUNDY CÔTEDEBEAUNE

The southernhalf of the fabledCôte d’Or, this wonderful area of vineyards spans approximately 25miles froma little north of Beaune - the village of Pernand-Vergelesses - to Santenay in the south. The Côte de Beaune is more about whitewines, and produces 70% white to 30% red, including the spectacular GrandCrus of LeMontrachet, Bienvenue- Bâtard-Montrachet, Bâtard-Montrachet, Criots- BâtardMontrachet, Chevalier-Montrachet, Corton-Charlemagne, and the rare Corton Blanc. The redGrandCrus of Corton are fabulous – they tend to have less volume than those fromCôte deNuits, but plenty of minerality. There are three famous whitewine villages south of Beaune – Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet andMeursault. Puligny (pronounced Puleenee) tends often towards a nuttiness and lovelyminerality. The best 1er Cru vineyards in Puligny are Pucelles, Combettes, Perrières andChamp-Canet. Puligny-Montrachet and home to perhaps the most famous GrandCrus of LeMontrachet, Chevalier, Batard and Bienvenue-Batard Montrachet. Chassagne has lovely florality on the nose andmore volume. InChassagne which is home to no less than 48 Premier CruVineyards look out for the amazing La Romanee, EnCailleret, Boudriotte, Chenevottes and EnRemilly. Thewines ofMeursault tend towards a littlemore volume and a lovely texturewith a rich and savoury quality.

Clearly in all cases it is down to the grower, whowill determine howmuch pleasure us drinkers derive fromthe various vineyards. The grower is key and can really determine both price and pleasure. Look out for Etienne Sauzet and Domaine Leflaive in Puligny. InChassagne there are no better thanDomaines Moreau and Pillot , and inMeursault themighty Guy Roulot , Jobard and thewonderful Ballot-Millot . Well worth seeking out are the Bourgogne Blancs fromgreat growers whichwill demonstrate their excellent winemaking nose, while not causing your bank account toomuch dismay. The red vineyards of Pommard, Volnay, Savigny-les-Beaune, Beaune andChorey-les- Beaune are delicious discoveries. Domaine Tollot-Beaut inChorey is simply delicious drinking, and sensibly priced. InVolnay and Pommard both, look out for the charming wines of Voillot , and of course the impressive Comte Armand wines the best of which is their Monopole Clos des Épeneaux. Chandonde Briailles make amazingwines in Savigny-les- Beaune, Beaune, Corton, Pernand-Vergelesses and some superb Bourgogne Rouge (which, by theway, is always a good appellation to buy in a decent vintagewhenmade by a good grower). Julian Chamberlen

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WINE CATALOGUE

BURGUNDY CÔTEDEBEAUNE

MEET THE GROWER Domaine Launay- Horiot POMMARD This small estate of just 3.6 hectares emerged from ten years of family lawsuits, phoenix-like. Fortunately, Xavier Horiot won and was able tomake the first estate-bottled wines in 2014. Previous to winemaking he flew Mirage fighter jets (the symbol on the label denotes two jet fighters forming a cross), so was very used to holding his nerve! He took an oenology course at Bordeaux University and is now thoroughly enjoying crafting some really fabulous wines. The estate has extensive plots of Pommard villages because a series of only children has prevented the fracturing of the family holdings. In the vineyard, no herbicides are used, and all work is done by hand. He looks for purity has a very exciting future. To top it off, he is a lovely guy and as approachable as his wines! His Latricières-Chambertin is a thing of great beauty and his Pommard 1er Cru Rugiens en Bas is glorious. We often taste it after his Latricières such is the quality!

TA91 POINTS

POMMARD, LES PERRIÈRES DOMAINE LAUNAY-HORIOT 2018 DRINK2021-2028

12x75 £475

3.5% alcohol and less than 15% new oak. Charming fruit and floral aromas. A dark fruit and structured palate, with a linear finish. Elegant and clean village Pommard.

CÔTE DE BEAUNE

CLASSIC GRAPE VARIETALS Pinot Noir, Chardonnay

FAVOURITE PRODUCERS

Ramonet, Sauzet, Leflaive, Paul Pillot, Roche de Bellene, and Chandon de Briailles

AREA UNDER VINE 3,600ha

SOIL TYPE Limestone

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PERNAND-VERGELESSES, 1ERCRU ÎLEDEVERGELESSES DOMAINE CHANDON DE BRIAILLES 2017 DRINK2021 - 2030

BURGUNDY CÔTEDEBEAUNE

6x75 3x150

£235 £250

Pretty red fruit –wild raspberries - atop a smoky kirsch nose. The chalky core is present on the palate – tense tannins and concentrated broad fruit. Very nice bit will need lots of time. A long finish, lifted andmenthol, vinifiedwith 50%whole bunches in 20%newoak.

Chandon de Brilliant 2017: Outstanding Quality & Value, White &Red Burgundies Froma Domaine Reborn…SoMuch to RecommendHere…

MEET THE GROWER Domaine Chandon De Brialles SAVIGNY-LES-BEAUNE

—NEALMARTIN

This elegant, family-run biodynamic estate of 13.7 hectares is 4 kilometres north-west of Beaune. Vineyard holdings extend equally amongst Aloxe-Corton, Pernand-Vergelesses and Savigny-les-Beaune, and they are unique inmaking the only Corton Grand Cru Blanc in the region. Claude de Nicolay and her brother François run the estate, with their Aussie wine- maker Christian Knott verymuch in tune with their philosophy. Even their corks are organic and treated with beeswax, and horses now plough all their plots. Wine style here is always focused on finesse, with each vineyard vividly expressing its individual character. There are three exceptional Grand Cru Cortons and for me, the Savigny-les-Beaune, 1er Cru Lavières is always a pleasure. We are delighted to offer their wines.

BH91 POINTS

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WINE CATALOGUE

BURGUNDY CÔTEDEBEAUNE

VINOUS 88-91 POINTS

BH93 POINTS

These are among the small handful of wines that realize the true potential of the hill of Corton.

—WILLIAMKELLEY, WINEADVOCATE, 2019

PERNAND-VERGELESSES, 1ERCRU ILEDEVERGELESSES BLANC DOMAINE CHANDON DE BRIAILLES 2018 DRINK2022+ 6x75 £275 33% ismatured in 1000 litre Stockinger barrels, 66% in classic French barriques. White peach, citrus, focused and pure elegant aromatics. Very focused, taut, opens nicely on the palate to pear, spice and baked green apple -midweight.

CORTONLES BRESSANDES GRANDCRU DOMAINE CHANDON DE BRIAILLES 2017 DRINK2020-2030

6x75 3x150 1x300

£540 £580 £399

They own 1.5 hectares of Bressandes, which is above Marechaudes in themiddle of the slope. This has brooding power; it’s wilder on the nose. Truffle and wild berry. The palate displays darker fruit with cacao and a tense structure. Earthy spice, and then so fresh on the finish.apple -midweight.

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MEET THE GROWER Domaine Comte Armand POMMARD This aristocratic and extremely pretty estate dates to 1826 and is famed for owning in entirety themost famous vineyard in Pommard, the 5.2-hectare Clos des Epeneaux. Along with this holding are some excellent parcels in Auxey Duresses and Volnay. Paul Zinetti took over running the estate in 2014 fromBenjamin Leroux, and you could not hope tomeet a brighter, more engaging and seriously talented wine- maker, always willing to open older bottles by way of “reference”. It is amost enjoyable education to taste here. New oak is used judiciously, and it is Paul’s intention to allow each vineyard to express itself. This coupled with biodynamic practices, old vines and low yields offer up beautifully weighted wines, with finesse, charm, and great precision.

BURGUNDY CÔTEDEBEAUNE

VINOUS 90-92 POINTS

VINOUS 93-95 POINTS

AUXEY-DURESSES, 1ERCRU DOMAINE COMTE ARMAND 2018 DRINK2022 - 2032

POMMARD, 1ERCRUCLOSDES EPENAUX DOMAINE COMTE ARMAND 2018 DRINK2027 - 2040

6x75 £595

6x75 £175

Lots of limestone on one of the plots – 60% of the volume, with the other 40% on clay. There’s darker fruit here than the villages, but with a very fine andmenthol finish.

Thesemaybe 8 or 9 different terroirs inClos des Epenaux, sowe tasted four barrel samples to give an example of theMonopole’s different components. The large plot along the roadwas planted by Pascal Marchand in the 1980s and produces tiny volumes. Though the vines are only 35 years old there’s a piquant spice here. Two plots aged 85 and 92 years-old provide such gorgeous sweet fruit with very fine, cassis and cherry - superb and linear. 6 of the 70 barrels is ‘press wine’ which provides subtle backbone to the blend. The final blend ismore than the sumof its parts. A very classically styledwine with a long savoury fruit finish.

Clos des Epeneaux, responsible for the deepest, richest, most intensely concentrated and longest lived wines in Pommard!

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WINE CATALOGUE

BURGUNDY CÔTEDEBEAUNE

VOLNAY, 1ERCRUENCHAMPANS DOMAINE JOSEPH VOILLOT 2018 DRINK2023 - 2030

6x75 £275

Complex, pure black fruit on the nose. Really very concentrated on the palate. The phrase huge crowd pleaser came tomind when tasting this fantastic wine. There is great balance and tension here between theminerality, structure and fruit profile. There’s a herbal fresh finish with hints of white pepper.

MEET THE GROWER Domaine

Joseph Voillot VOLNAY Julian has enjoyed a long associationwith these wines and remembers vividly some years ago drinking a bottle of 1964 Volnay 1er Cru Champans. We are delighted to be working with themat Farthinghoe. Etienne Chaix has taken over winemaking fromhis uncle Jean-Pierre Charlot, continuing their style of purity and finesse and these wines certainly age well. The Domaine is around 10 hectares, principally in Volnay and Pommard. Vines are old, grapes are partially de-stemmed, ageing is in 30% new barrels for 15 - 18months, and wines are bottled unfined. A fine, mineral style, so fresh, and yet with quite serious structure that explains the liveliness of the 1964 Volnay. They do gentle punching down and pumping over twice a day, which provides structure to balance the beautiful fruit profiles of these wines. These are a welcome addition to our growing Burgundy portfolio.

TA93 POINTS

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MEET THE GROWER Domaine Ballot Millot MEURSAULT Typically, Charles Ballot leads us through his range of excellent Meursaults, which are fine and refined and remindmemuchmore of mineral Pulignys than big, burly Meursaults – a good thing! Only in his early 40s, 2018 is Charles’ ninteenth vintage and he is the seventeenth generation since 1780 to bemaking wine at Ballot Millot, so has the unfair genetic advantage of wine-making skills in his blood compared to some of his neighbours, and it shows. His wine-making approach is non- intrerventionalist, with natural fermentation, no introduced yeast, no battonage and not too much oak, allowing the vines and terroir to do the talking. Charles’ cellar is very cold, and he racks either just before or just after harvest, with wonderful results! Fine andmineral wines for longer-termbottle age, which nestle very nicely into our White Burgundy portfolio. We think these quite profound with the same flinty focused style of of Dom. Roulot. Get involved sooner rather than later!

BURGUNDY CÔTEDEBEAUNE

MEURSAULT, 1ERCRULES BOUCHERES DOMAINE BALLOT MILLOT 2018 DRINK2022+

MEURSAULT DOMAINE BALLOT MILLOT 2018 DRINK2021+

6x75 £220

6x75 £375

Different soil parcels – Les Corbins, Chaume de Narvaux, and Pelle all vinified separately prior to blending. There’s good tension here, with creamy white chocolate notes, tangy lemon sherbet. A very pure and leanMeursault with excellent ripeness and great mineral character. This really displays the lean and focused Ballot Millot style.

The soil in Boucheres is warmer and the grapes ripen earlier. Very good nose – red apple and red berry, sweet citrus, lemon sherbet. Prominent mineral and acid edge maintaining great tension in this riper, more charming style.

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WINE CATALOGUE